As could possibly be expected from a former child star, justin bieber clothing has had many a fashion transformation over time. He’s done quiffed hair and a thick gold rapper’s chain. He’s posed looking buff in Calvin Klein pants. He’s experimented having a floppy fringe plus a suit. But although some of his efforts to toughen up happen to be met with derision, the most up-to-date part of the Biebvolution is actually bang in the fashion money. We have seen ripped jeans. There have been oversized hoodies, and oversized Nirvana T-shirts with the sleeves hacked off. Crucially, we have seen a lot of layering – and many raw edges.
Not everyone gets it (“Justin Bieber wears bizarre frayed denim top,” was the Mirror’s response to his Marques’Almeida moment in the Radio 1 Teen awards earlier this month) however the latest incarnation of Bieber ties right into a mood that is sweeping through menswear – and could be arriving in your wardrobe soon.
In short: scruffiness is hot. Glitzy is out. Deliberately undone and messy is. Think a Wolfgang Tillmans portrait meets 1990s grunge by using a tracksuit top as well as a pierced ear thrown in for good measure. You might dub it a hot mess for males, but the single thing you will never call it is hipster – manicured beards ought to be ditched for haphazard facial hair immediately.
Undoubtedly, Marques’Almeida, the label justin bieber hoodie wore on the teen awards, has been integral on the boost in rise in popularity of denim and also of jeans that are hacked off and left raw. Basically, if it’s the level of look which makes parents eyeroll and say: “You paid for that? Do want me to set proper hems on those?”, this has legs. Elsewhere about the catwalk, for his spring/summer 2016 menswear show, Raf Simons sent out herringbone trousers that was roughly cut off in the anklebone, sat above some Stan Smiths. His shrunken tank knits had a sort of moth-eaten, make-do-and-mend thing taking place; close up, the holes within these knits are layered more than a contrast fabric layer, and, actually, are far nicer than I’ve made them sound.
Justin Bieber’s winter 2015 i-D magazine cover.
This new mood – a sort of anti-luxury luxury – is there in all of the glossy style magazines, too, although glossy certainly is the wrong word. Bieber’s recent cover shoot for i-D magazine is a superb reference point. It sees the pop star stripped back – bleached hair, a smattering of stubble, tattoos. Shot by Alasdair McLellan, one of the most in-demand photographers in fashion, these pictures have a typical masculine rawness. Within a short video to accompany this shoot, you can even see acne on his forehead. Imagine. Meanwhile, Tillmans has shot typically lo-fi stories for the latest Arena Homme including one called How Fragile is it Man?, while the Russian designer and photographer Gosha Rubchinskiy has photographed ballet dancer Sergei Polunin for Man About Town. The second sees the shaven-headed ballet dancer wearing retro sportswear with eye makeup and a couple of days worth of facial hair.
Haute scruff have also been around probably the most talked-about moments from the spring/summer 2016 season: the Vetements show, which was located in a Chinese restaurant variously identified as “tacky” (Dazed & Confused), “cheap and cheerful” (Vogue Runway) and “kitschy” (Business of Fashion) and featured clothes that had been all deconstructed awkwardness and models who looked like that they had just rolled out of bed. Many of them weren’t actually models: Rubchinskiy appeared, wearing a DHL T-shirt (yes, as with the parcel delivery service); even show stylist, Lotta Volkova, took a start up the catwalk, closing proceedings in thigh-high boots plus a raw-edged denim miniskirt. The Vetements influence popular is merely set to carry on: once the show, one among Paris’s most historic fashion houses, Balenciaga, announced that its lead designer, Demna Gvasalia, ended up being to become its new creative director.
Rubchinskiy is another of your buzziest names in menswear; since 2012 his label has been backed up by Comme des Garçons. His clothes feel like a nerdy undertake Soviet sportswear – think a shellsuit top or 1980s patterned jumper. Snazzy, although not.
In fact, if everything else fails, the important thing to the look is a vintage-style tracksuit top. Gosha or AMI (next season) for guys. Chloe (next season) or Bottega Veneta resort for ladies (see British Vogue’s December issue, in which several tracktops are featured within the “new downtown silhouette”). Basically, it’s all a lttle bit Damon Albarn circa 1996. Why does this humble zip-up sum up this new anti-luxury luxury? Firstly, because it ticks the 1990s box – and the dexqpkyy16 has become the decade du jour. Secondly, it’s the exact opposite of the justin bieber t shirt that has been the headline news in menswear over the past number of years. And then finally, it’s easy to chuck on, doesn’t appear like you’ve made an effort but suggests you are aware what’s occurring. Which feels scruffy and modern indeed.
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